The Commercial Launch of Prolive® ESP: A Biofunctional Emulsifier

We are proud to announce the official commercial launch of Prolive® ESP, a cutting-edge water-in-oil (w/o) emulsifier derived from our exclusive Nyons Tanche olive oil chemistry. Assigned the INCI name Castor/olive oil esters (and) Olive oil polyglyceryl-6 esters, Prolive® ESP is 100% naturally derived and COSMOS-approved. This emulsifier is the culmination of extensive research and development by our global R&D organization.

Prolive® ESP is composed of ester structures derived from castor oil, olive oil, and polyglyceryl-6. A diagram that illustrates the preparation of these components is shown below:

A diagram showing castor oil fatty acids and glycerol coming from castor oil and olive oil fatty acids and glycerol coming from oilve oil. The castor oil fatty acids, glycerol, and olive oil fatty acids combine to form castor/olive oil esters. The olive oil fatty acids and polyglyceryl-6 combine to form olive oil polyglyceryl-6 esters.

During emulsification, Prolive® ESP forms a thick layer of emulsifying structure around the water droplet, providing high emulsification power and exceptional stability to the final w/o formulation. In addition, the oil-facing terminals with olive-derived fatty acids chains provide excellent skin sensation due to their high compatibility with skin surface lipids.

A diagram a water droplet surrounded by a layer castor/olive oil esters and polyglyceryl-6 esters. Beyond this layer of emulsifying structure is oil.

In our comprehensive study, we compared Prolive® ESP to the common w/o emulsifier PGPR by using a texture analyzer in a parallel quantitative test. The results revealed that Prolive® ESP exhibited lower total force, reflecting its superior spreading properties.

A chart showing the formulations for the creams used in the study. The formulations are the same except that one uses 3% Prolive<sup>®</sup> ESP by weight in Phase B, and the other uses 3% PGPR.

The experiment was carried out using a TA.XTplus Texture Analyzer in compression traction mode. A 200 g sled with a 50 x 50 mm2 Helioplate™ HD 2 plate was placed over 200 µL of the tested cream, which had been applied to a 20 x 20 mm2 area of a polypropylene plastic sheet base. The sled was then pulled across the cream at a constant speed of 3 mm/sec for 60 mm. The total force for this pulling process was measured and considered as the spreading force. This is a simple in vitro experiment designed for parallel comparison of cosmetic samples. It may not fully simulate the complete spreading process on skin.

A bar chart showing that the Prolive<sup>®</sup> ESP cream exhibited a total force of around 1600 g.sec and the control PGPR cream exhibited a total force of around 2200 g.sec.

The total force measured by this experiment represents the effects of the cream’s spreading properties, friction, and viscosity. The formulation that contained Prolive® ESP displayed lower total force than the control sample, indicating that Prolive® ESP is more spreadable than the common w/o emulsifier PGPR.

Furthermore, Prolive® ESP demonstrates high compatibility with skin surface lipids, acting as a powerful emulsifier that rapidly reduces interfacial surface energy between water and oil phases. Its versatility extends to compatibility with various oils, including triglyceride vegetable oils, synthetic esters, and mineral oils. In addition, Prolive® ESP seamlessly integrates with texturizers such as volatile oils, silicones, and ethanol.

In the formulation of w/o sunscreens, Prolive® ESP excels at emulsifying both liquid and solid organic UV filters, enhancing the skin sensation of UV filter molecules for superb sensorial effects. Prolive® ESP is also a potent dispersing agent, enabling the dispersion of solid particles such as pigments and metal oxide UV filters.

Prolive® ESP stands out by forming strong, stable liquid crystal phases in emulsions and by offering optimum rheology profiles for a pleasant skin feel and uniform coverage. As such, formulations that contain Prolive® ESP reinforce skin barrier functions by thoroughly moisturizing and protecting the skin. Ultimately, Prolive® ESP reduces skin stresses and delivers long-term soothing effects.