Patent Covering Comprehensive Plant Actives Technology Granted to Proscien

Cosmetic, dermatological, and nutricosmetic products that improve hydration and barrier functions of the epidermis, heal and depigment skin, or combat cutaneous aging are very popular with global consumers. The vital formulation components that provide these critical functionalities are active ingredients, and plant-based active ingredients are the dominating players due to their ecological and sustainability profiles. To derive all the benefits of plant active ingredients, we have carried out extensive research and development work on raw plant material selection as well as molecule extraction, preservation, stabilization, and delivery for many active ingredients from the Provence region. Our discoveries covering the extraction process and the preservation and delivery of active molecules are protected in this newly allowed patent (No. 22 02587).

This patent discloses cosmetic actives derived from natural plant materials and certain agriculture processing waste streams, delivered in a matrix of butter compositions. The butter compositions can carry actives with a wide spectrum of polarities, ranging from highly hydrophilic to highly lipophilic. Hydrophilic actives reside primarily in the water droplets, while lipophilic actives reside in the continuous fat phase. Plant actives in this invention are extracted from natural plants or their processed derivatives. Some actives are extracted directly from targeted plant components, and others are extracted from food processing waste streams such as olive oil mills or grape fermentation wineries. A wide variety of extraction methods can be employed; however, to achieve the highest yield with the broadest inclusion of plant active molecules, supercritical CO₂ extraction and solid-state adsorption extraction are the preferred techniques for this invention.

Specifically, the butter composition in this invention is designed to act as a transfer vehicle for plant active ingredients. This composition protects actives against oxidative damage and inhibits bacterial growth thanks to optimally sized water droplets. The butter contains crystallized fats, water droplets and fat globules in a continuous oil phase. As such, plant active ingredients can be water- or fat-soluble. Supercritical CO₂ extraction, sometimes combined with natural ethanol, is the preferred method for obtaining high yields of plant actives. Alternatively, the actives can be extracted from food waste streams, such as olive oil mill wastewater or grape pomace, using adsorbent resins or adsorption-desorption methods. In addition to transporting, protecting, and delivering cosmetic actives of plant origin, the butter matrix also provides a pleasant sensation on the skin thanks to its melting range and physical structures.

Easily incorporated into various cosmetic formulations, such as oleo-gels or oil-based products, the butter matrix protects sensitive active ingredients from oxidation, ensures their even distribution on the skin, and promotes better penetration into the top skin layers. The butter matrix also enables controlled release of active ingredients over a prolonged period, improving the efficacy of cosmetic formulations.

The claims cover the basic butter composition, the composition's physical characteristics (melting point, size of water droplets, fat globules), the methods for extracting plant active ingredients, and the processes for incorporating the active ingredients into the butter matrix. The composition is designed to offer optimum protection of the active ingredients and their controlled release onto the skin.

Our ProActive^® and ProSenteur^® product collections are covered by this granted patent.